Travel Rewind: Palccoyo Rainbow Mountain Outside of Cusco, Peru
The Rainbow Mountains in Peru are a natural phenomenon created by layers of different minerals being pushed up through tectonic activity, causing a literal rainbow of colors across the landscape.
In a world where it seems like all the cool tourist spots have already been discovered and exploited, the Rainbow Mountains are pretty new. Until about 2015, these peaks were covered in snow and ice year-round, but rising global temperatures melted the glaciers and exposed the brightly colored minerals underneath. Now, they are one of Peru's most iconic regional landmarks.
One of the most important things I can tell you about these mountains is to temper your expectations when reading about them online. They do look cool, BUT a vast majority of the pictures you see online are heavily filtered to make the colors look way brighter than they actually are. All of my photos here were taken with a standard cell phone camera and have no filters at all. I'm not trying to sell you shit.
From Cusco, you'll see a couple of different Rainbow Mountain tours available: Vinicunca and Palccoyo. Both tours cost about the same, around 120 soles ($35), plus an entry fee at the gate. For some reason in Peru, these fees never seem to be included in the tour price. Entry was 20 soles ($6) for Palccoyo, while Vinicunca, being the more popular of the two, costs slightly more.
You really only need to do one or the other. Unfortunately, both require a brutal 3.5-hour drive to get there. The last hour and a half on the way to Palccoyo felt like we were almost there, but it was an extremely bumpy dirt road moving at about 15 mph.
I chose Palccoyo for a few different reasons. As high as Cusco is and as tough as the elevation is to acclimatize to, both of these mountains are on a whole other level. Cusco sits about 11,100 feet (3,400 meters) above sea level, but Palccoyo sits at 16,000 feet (4,900 meters) and Vinicunca reaches over 17,000 feet (5,200 meters). Cusco is already a challenge to breathe in, but these two spots are in a whole other league.
Vinicunca is a much tougher climb, but that isn't what dissuaded me from going. Palccoyo gets a fraction of the tourists, and from pictures I've seen, I don't know why. I honestly think it's just people wanting the physical challenge. I genuinely believe Palccoyo is the better site, and it also features a cool stone forest near the summit.
The drive to the mountain also offers a glimpse into rural Andean life. It is really something I just can't imagine. Most families up here raise alpacas, and their wool is the primary commodity for making a living. While crops don't grow for shit at this altitude, the alpacas and llamas survive just fine on the scrub grass that grows throughout the area.
When you get off the bus, the first thing you'll likely notice is how fucking cold it is. All I brought was a hoodie and I was freezing my ass off, but the hike is active enough that you'll warm up and be fine once you get moving.
Right after getting off the bus, there is a decent set of steps you have to climb, and you'll immediately notice a second thing: how much harder it is to breathe. Honestly, this first set of steps is probably one of the most difficult parts of the entire trail. The path through the park is well maintained and mostly has gentle inclines (mostly, because the final leg to the top is pretty steep). You don't really need to stick with your tour group either, so you have plenty of time to go at your own pace and enjoy the views.
So after you've had your fill, you can make your way back down. I found the hike down to be a little sketchy, though. The path down isn't as well defined, and with all the loose red rock, it is very easy for your feet to slide out from under you.
I thought I took my time through all of this, but I was still the first person in my group back to the meetup point with about 20 minutes to spare. Like I said, you get plenty of time. This is really my favorite type of tour, where you can just explore on your own and do your own thing.
After the mountain, there is a quick stop in a nearby town called Checacupe where you can see a nifty Inca rope bridge. Honestly, it is mostly just filler, but it is a good place to get out and stretch your legs after that awful ride down the mountain. Even though it is a 3.5-hour drive each way, you are still back in Cusco before nightfall because you leave so early and there isn't too much bloat to the actual tour. About two-thirds of your day takes place inside the van.
I really did enjoy this tour and don't regret going, but that was mostly because I was based in Cusco for six weeks. A seven-hour round-trip car ride is a big ask for someone on a short vacation trying to relax. If you don't have much time in the area, I'd make this a lower priority. If you do go, make sure to schedule it for one of your last days in Cusco so you're properly acclimatized to the altitude.
Don't feel bad about the local children. Visitors provide a huge economic boost to the area and increase awareness of the locals. I'm sure that they would rather have the visitors.